The ingredients with the most evidence in dermo-cosmetics (according to an expert pharmacist): what they do and how to choose them wisely

If you follow the world of dermocosmetics, you're surely familiar with Marta Masi. A pharmacist, science communicator, and one of the most respected voices in the sector, her approach to cosmetics aligns perfectly with ours at Two Poles: science, evidence, and well-thought-out formulas, always prioritizing substance over empty promises.

We had the pleasure of chatting with her on The Glow Up Journey podcast (click here to listen to the full episode), and Marta made it very clear: not all ingredients are equal, nor is everything suitable for all skin types.
So, let's take this opportunity to review some of the cosmetic active ingredients with the most scientific backing, what they actually do for the skin, and how to choose them wisely.

Retinol: the most-studied well-aging active ingredient

When it comes to evidence-backed active ingredients, retinol remains king. Marta unreservedly described it as a "winner." And for good reason: it improves wrinkles, texture, spots, blemishes, and also stimulates cell renewal.

However, it's true that not all skin types tolerate it equally. It can cause irritation, dryness, or flaking if not used correctly. That's why it's crucial to choose the right concentration, introduce it gradually, and pair it with good hydration and soothing active ingredients.

And this is where the difference between any product and a well-designed formula is most evident. At Two Poles, we advocate for balanced formulas like that of Night Serum, with encapsulated retinol for better tolerance and soothing active ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier.

Hyaluronic Acid: the ingredient that never fails

From the pharmacy, hyaluronic acid is one of those ingredients that are always recommended. And Marta Masi values it as a "top" ingredient for one key reason: it's suitable for everyone.

It hydrates, improves elasticity, helps maintain barrier function, and doesn't cause problems even for sensitive or reactive skin.

That's why hyaluronic acid is always present in our moisturizers. But not just any hyaluronic acid; we use different molecular weights to achieve immediate hydration on the skin's surface and a medium-term effect in deeper layers.

Glycolic Acid: exfoliation, renewal... and much more

If there's one active ingredient that excites Marta Masi, it's glycolic acid. And it's no coincidence. It is one of the most studied alpha-hydroxy acids, with clear efficacy in exfoliation, cell renewal, improvement of texture, spots, and signs of aging.

Because yes, it not only exfoliates but also helps improve signs of aging by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis.

To achieve effective yet skin-friendly exfoliation, a very good strategy is the one we follow with Vacation Skin Peeling: combining Glycolic Acid with Gluconolactone (PHA) to provide all the power of an "at-home peel" with enviable skin tolerance.

Exosomes: molecular cosmetics that work

Here we're talking about pure innovation. Exosomes are one of the most promising active ingredients, as they act as cellular messengers, promoting skin regeneration and repair.

Marta highlighted something key as an expert: their very high tolerance, even for very delicate skin, and their potential in complex dermatological contexts. An active ingredient that is not only a trend but is backed by very interesting emerging research. Undoubtedly, "they are the future."

And precisely in seeking to develop advanced formulas that combine science, safety, and visible results, we created our Ultra-lift range based on Centella Asiatica exosomes.

So... how do you choose cosmetic active ingredients well?

It's easier than it seems, going beyond trends. As Marta Masi advocates —and as we apply at Two Poles—, the key is to choose evidence-based ingredients that are well-formulated and adapted to each skin type.
Because, friend, it's not about using everything, but about using what really works for you.

So if you need help creating a routine tailored to you, one that you'll actually stick with over time, write to us. We'll be delighted to help you.

Hugs, I'll see you at @twopolescosmetics & @partners.incream

Anna
xx